Monday 26 January 2015

Kayaking on the Pongola River below the Jozini Dam

Have you ever driven across the Jozini Dam wall en route to Ponta Do Ouro or Ponta Malongane in Mozambique or perhaps to Ndumo Game Reserve or Tembe Elephant Park? It is a pretty awesome experience to actually drive on the 90m high wall with the dam on one side and a sheer drop down to the Pongola River on the other.. In fact many people stop at the lay by on the far side of the wall to get a better look at the river as it flows off into the Makhathini Flats wondering what it would be like to paddle this stretch of the river....Well wonder no longer, here is a brief description of the first 15 km of Pongola river from directly below the Jozini dam wall to the Pongola River Camp...                                                           

Safety briefing


The Pongola River Company starts their trip directly below the dam wall with a safety briefing under the shade of a beautiful Sycamore Fig tree. The briefing introduces you to the area including the basic ecology and goes on to explain basic river safety, how to use the boats and how navigate through the 15 km of river between the wall and the Camp.

With the safety talk completed the first objective is to paddle right up under the dam wall and see where the water comes hurtling out of the sluice gates creating a 30m high plume of mist and boiling water. 

Water released from the sluice gate at the bottom of the wall

After this we head downstream to tackle the weir. Depending on the water level we either decide to run the weir or portage around it and as a general rule of thumb the weir is safely runnable when the river is running at about 7 cumecs. Anything higher than this and extreme caution needs to be taken as weirs are notoriously dangerous due to the suck back or washing machine generated by the falling water which can recycle and unwary swimmer. Qualified river guides should always be in attendance when attempting to shoot dangerous rapids or a weir. Having said that if run properly and safely the weir can be a huge amount of fun and is by far the largest 'rapid' on the river.

       

From the weir downwards the river forms a pool drop system with a few large pools between numerous small but fun grade 1 rapids interspersed with narrow runs between reed beds. 
The water is crystal clear and the birding is exceptional with numerous Kingfisher and Heron species as well as African Finfoot, African Jacana and the occasional sighting of something special like the Pels Fishing Owl, Brown hooded parrot and Narina Trogon. At dusk you have a good chance of seeing a Bat Hawk where the paddle ends at the Pongola River Camp..
Pels Fishing Owl spotted on the Pongola Rive
White fronted bee eaters














For the more relaxed paddle the trip can be split up over 2 days with a night spent sleeping at the Lunch Pool campsite. For the more energetic and as the name suggests this is where we stop over for a lunch break before paddling another 4km through to the Pongola River Camp.


Above: Lunch Pool camp site.   Right: The Mozambique style bar over looking at the Pongola River Camp

The Pongola River Camp marks the end of the one day river trip and transfers are provided back to Jozini for day visitors. In conclusion this is a great full day or half day activity suitable for the whole family. The trips are run by qualified African Paddling Association (APA) and Field Guides Association of South Africa (FGASA) accredited guides so you are in good hands. The water is crystal clear, the rapids are small and safe but more fun than paddling on flat water and above all the scenery and birding is outstanding!

For those interested in multi day canoe trips this marks the completion of the first day with an option of a further 1,2 or 3 days paddle from the camp down stream. Please continue reading for more information the multi day canoe trips!

Day 2 Pongola River Camp to Sand Bank Campsite 25km

Awesome underwater pic of a tiger.
This is a super chilled day where you spend as much time floating next to your boat as actually paddling it! With loads of Sycamore Fig trees hanging over the sandy shores picking a good shady spot for lunch and an afternoon siesta is a given. If you have a fly rod and would like to try your luck for tiger fish now is your chance. After an hour or so lunch break we hop back into the kayaks and drift/paddle the remaining 10km to the over night Sand Bank Campsite which is on a small sandy island next to an excellent fishing hole. As is the case every night on the multi-day paddling trips the tents are set up for you and we do all the catering allowing you to enjoy a sundowner on your own little island overlooking the Pongola River..


Day 3 Sand Bank Campsite to Forest Campsite 20km

Forest Campsite inlet.
On day 3 the river changes again; the water becomes deeper and the river narrower so that the Sycamores form a canopy above as you paddle the 20 km to the Forest Camp. Day 3 is slightly shorter than the other days leaving you ample time to fish for Tigers with lures should you wish. The birding and scenery is outstanding on as you float through the heart of the floodplain. We set up camp where an old sandy riverbed runs into the Pongola river. The white sandy riverbed is surrounded by dense forest and about 3m above the water level and comes complete with an inlet to park the boats - perfect.





Day 4 Forest Campsite to Skimelela 30km


Stunning Pongola river

The river here is stunning and thickly vegetated with Giant Sycamore fig trees, Natal Mahogany and Fever Trees. The birding is really good with lots of African Finfoot, Green Coucal and a chance to spot the elusive Pels Fishing Owl. The fishing on this stretch of the river can be challenging with the thick vegetation in along the banks but is often rewarded with some nice size Tiger fish. The distance on day 4 can be reduced by 10 km/2hours should you need the extra traveling time to get home. Once we get to the extraction point we will return you to your vehicles in Jozini which is a 45 minute drive.



In summary the 90+km 3night/4day river trip has a bit of something to offer for everything. The fishing is great and heats up in Spring/Summer while the birding is truly exceptional all year round and the canoeing, as always on the Pongola, is a real treat.